So we have had a hard week after returning from a stunning holiday. The previous weekend we returned from Antigua which you could have called a beach holiday or us doing a recce of suitable anchorages. Maria always seems to have ants in her pants and this was no exception with the holiday being punctuated by two trips around the island on a sailing catamaran, two days driving around the island, two visits to Shirley heights with dancing all night, two trips to an adjacent hotel, a tour of English Harbour, kayaking and sailing a hobbie cat! Very restful, not!
This holiday had arrived at a good time after the tragic news of Maria’s youngest sister passing unexpectedly. The funeral was scheduled for when we returned which of course meant it was going to be very hard emotionally. On Thursday, Natalie was laid to rest in a very fitting ceremony. On our return to the boat on Friday, I felt that Maria needed to get away from it all and so told her to pick up some bait from the fishing tackle shop – yes, that’s right, time to feed the crabs again!
This weekend was also the Thames Barge Match and last year we found a fantastic spot to watch the races of these glorious old sailing ships. We were lucky to get some fantastic pictures of these last year so let’s do that again. The wind forecast was for a very light northerly wind.
As we cast off our lines on Friday afternoon, the wind seemed quite a bit more than the forecast 10 knots but that shouldn’t be a problem. I am still working as we head down river and I have to disappear to the fore peak to do an important call for work. When I emerge we are at the moorings opposite Suffolk Yacht Harbour at Levington.
Maria has flicked Mariadz round to go into the wind which is gusting in excess of 20 knots. I am ready with the boat hook in hand and a line ready to thread through the buoy. We communicate quite well and Maria gets the boat perfectly positioned for the pickup. I have grabbed the pick up line and haul it up to the deck to thread our line through. So far so good. Our line is through and it is then that I notice that our line is in between the guard rail lines, that help to keep us all in the boat. How did that happen? I have a technique where the lines are run around the outside of the boat to avoid this so clearly I have messed up badly here. So I have to keep hold of the buoy with the boat hook, while I unthread our line, pull it out of the guard rail line and rethread it. All while Maria holds Mariadz on station against a strong current and now 24 knots of wind. We are now broadside on to the wind which rather limits Maria’s options and we are struggling. I decide it would be best just to start again. The line is dropped but the boat hook is snagged on the buoy and won’t release. I am being pulled by twenty tonne of sailing yacht away from the buoy and I am desperately trying to hold on to the boat hook. Maria is able to moneouvre us a little closer and I can extricate the boat hook. Let’s try that again….. the approach for the second attempt isn’t quite as smooth as the first, the wind seems to be stronger and gusting, definitely not what is on the prediction. We get close and I have grabbed the buoy again. I know the line is right this time but I can’t get it through the buoy, I am still holding on as the gusts get the better of Maria’s boat control and we are getting dragged further away from the buoy. It’s ok, I have got it….. my shoulders, back and forearms are protesting as I try to manhandle the buoy close enough to get the line through. And then I can take no more, I let go and get to watch our third metal extendable boat hook disappear into the River Orwell. I strongly suspect we are making a little pile of these down there! Maybe a metal version of Jenga. I am sorely tempted to dive down one day before we leave and retrieve the stockpile.
Anyway, we are not having that! The backup boat hook is called into action! This time we will get it right. There is, of course, an argument that when you are being given a hammering by the elements and Lady Luck, it is probably best to cut your losses. That’s not how we roll on Mariadz, although maybe in future it will be. The interesting thing about the backup boat hook is that unlike the primary one, it floats….you are probably wondering how I know that. Interestingly, I only discovered this today on our third attempt at the same buoy. At least it seemed that the boat hook floated as it remained attached to the buoy after I had been forced to let it go (again). Retrieval was going to be an interesting lesson in boat handling as Maria approached the buoy from astern with me on the swimming platform. After a couple of attempts, we had mastered the approach and I was able to retrieve the boat hook. I guess this really didn’t prove that it floated since it was still attached to the buoy. The floating theory was proved on our next attempt when the boat hook was let go again, and disconnected from the buoy and floated off down the Orwell with us going astern chasing it down! Maria was getting adept at going astern to pick up boat hooks so we don’t go too far to get it back. Ironically, we caught up with it adjacent to another buoy which we were alongside for ages, but on the wrong side!
The reason we were struggling was the design off the hook itself which worked well at picking up the buoy but rather less well at letting it go again after I had threaded our line through it. I couldn’t get it off even though I had the line through. One last attempt or we are going to anchor somewhere! We are nothing if we are not stubborn! Once again, Maria gets the approach spot on and this time it is textbook. Buoy is pulled up, line threaded through and boat hook disconnected before walking to the bow of the boat to tie off the end on another cleat!
Of course this would have happened the first time, and I would have saved a boat hook, if I hadn’t had the line twisted through the guard rail wires! We can now lick our wounds, despair at our losses and get a well earned beer – we must have burned enough calories to justify that!
As we gently swing around the mooring, we start to set ourselves up for some relaxation with the table and chairs out and Maria starting to get her fishing gear ready. 
I may have mentioned that Maria had visited the fishing tackle shop, where she had been able to entertain them with her stories of catching fish including the infamous “three skate” at Osea Island. They are suitably impressed by her prowess but do point out that if she catches sea bass this weekend she has to throw them back. That’s typical. Nothing is going to stop her having her fun though. At least the wind seems to be dying and the sun is out so the perfect opportunity to top up our Antiguan tans!
Maria has the fishing rods out of their bag but, unfortunately, one of the reels doesn’t seem to be working correctly and there is a metallic rattle coming from within it. Maria has decided that it is time to take the reel apart and sort it out so that she can continue fishing. Now those that know me well, will know that I was a bit of a whizz with clocks in my youth. You could bring me a broken clock and I would take the whole thing apart meticulously, find the problem and put it back together again. As an added bonus you would even get a few spare parts in addition to your still broken clock. It was therefore with some apprehension that I serviced the winches last year but that seemed to go ok and they all still seem to work 🙂 How hard can it be….
Fishing reels are probably more like a clock than a winch….. certainly having looked at the diagram.
We start to take it apart and I lay the pieces out in order on the deck to remind us what order to put them back in. As we get to the body of the reel, we have undone the screws and as the body cracks open a spring pops out…. Any idea where that came from darling…..Nope! Oh dear, this has got clock written all over it! We continue to try and understand the problem and it appears that a couple of screws have come off. Problem understood it is now time to put everything back together again. But we still have no idea where the strange shaped object and the spring go.
The diagram isn’t really helping either. After some time the obvious solution comes to me and I can see how the shaft fits through the body and therefore where it needs to go. Mystery solved, I set about putting everything back together. To be fair this has probably taken over an hour by now, there will be no more fishing tonight! Having established how everything should go back together, actually putting it back together correctly keeping all the parts in place seems to be a different matter all together. Eventually I succeed in getting the body closed and it seems to be right. Either way, I am not taking it apart again and all of the parts seem to be back in place. Ten minutes later it is the moment of truth….and the mechanism is working. Let’s see how well it does tomorrow.
Dinner is a quiet affair in the cockpit with the sounds of the water and various bird life twittering away. It’s a reasonably early night and we know, after the week we have had, it will be a good night’s sleep.
The next morning there is the light northerly breeze that we were expecting and it is bright with some sunshine. Excellent conditions for the Thames Barges and I suspect that we will see a lot of sail up today. Maria starts fishing and miraculously the reel seems to be working better today. Maybe all those years with clocks wasn’t a complete waste of time! She is still not catching anything though with most of her bait being eaten by snails or crabs. We also discover that our friends Amanda and Mark were at Levington the previous evening and witnessed the entertainment, particularly us chasing our second boat hook back up the river, backwards. So there will be no bending of the truth in this blog….
It’s closing on 10am when the racing is due to start but not before we get the opportunity to experience an amazingly thoughtless motorboater. I saw him coming up the river for a little while on the plane with a huge wash behind him.
He decides to cut the corner of the river and fly through the moorings causing havoc behind him. Unfortunately the boat had no markings and you know they would not have been listening to the radio. Just a shame they were so inconsiderate of everyone else.
We hear the first horn at pin mill for the start of the first race of the fastest barges. These are large with a lot of sail and it is all flying today. Another commercial barge, hydrogen, is following them down the river offering great views of the race. They are also well positioned so that they don’t get in the way of the photos tho :).
The second race is a very close affair at the start with another viewing barge Thistle right in amongst it. Unfortunately this meant that there was little chance of getting really good pictures until they were past us. To be honest I was just happy that Thistle missed us as they pass close enough that we can talk to their guests without raising our voices.
After the last race has gone past us, we decide to go. We could have waited for the return of the barges as the race finishes in the late afternoon, but decide that we would rather head to tonight’s anchorage in the Stour rather than waiting til late in the day. The weather and the barges have certainly brought out a lot of boats though as I happily snap away at anything with a sail up!
Like yesterday, the wind is very gusty and varying from 1 knot to 18 knots. It’s a bit tricky to set a sail for that! We are also against the tide and having spent an age around Harwich tacking and making little progress, we decide to motorsail down the river so that we can arrive a few miles up the river before dark.
Once anchored, which goes without a hitch, Maria is back to fishing for crabs and snails…. sorry I mean fishing, but catching crabs and snails!
An afternoon of chilling is disturbed by the arrival of our friends Stig and Widya from Wild Dream II on their rib. They are playing about on the water and come on board for a quick chat and a small drink.
We sit out on the aft deck chilling, chatting, drinking a glass or two and eating nibbles. What a lovely relaxing time.
You’ll notice that the cats haven’t featured prominently so far, this is because they have been asleep all the time.
They must have been running around while we weren’t here because they seem shattered now. Eventually Clyde stirs but it will take a lot to get Bonnie to wake up before early evening. Of course she will then be a terror during the evening as she prowls the decks.
It’s getting to evening time and we need to start thinking about dinner. Firstly Maria
gives the cats their treats, licky licks for Bonnie and a couple of prawns for the boy, he really is a prawn monster – can’t get enough of them. That wakes them up. Just in time to hassle us as we have our grilled meats and salad for dinner. We stay up in the cockpit until late and at this time of year it is 10pm before we see the spectacular sunset over the Royal Hospital School.

One advantage of the long sunny days is that the solar power works amazingly well. On this day we pull in more than 5KWh of power and the batteries are fully topped up despite using the kettle, microwave, ice maker and water heater from time to time during the day.
Sunday morning is another glorious day and a day for watching England in the World Cup finals as they play Panama at lunchtime. We decide to leave at about 10am to be back in good time. The boat is prepped quickly and having remembered to switch off the anchor alarm, I go forward to raise the anchor. Normally we are half a mile down river when we recognise the alarm going off saying we are dragging our anchor so it is good that we have been able to remember it this once. The first step is to remove the deck snubbers that protect the windlass from any snatching of the chain. The chain is then lifted a few metres to ease the tension on the main anchor snubber which normally takes the strain just below the waterline. This acts as a shock absorber, eases the load across our two bow cleats and protects our top sides from a rubbing chain. So far all good. The remainder of the chain is lifted and the anchor breaks the surface. Maria gets the signal that she has control but no bow thruster since the anchor buoy is still in the water. Normally I stow the anchor before removing the buoy line that is tied to the roll bar, which also acts as a trip for the anchor if necessary. I try to stow the anchor which is coming up backwards for some reason. It will normally flip as it comes through the bow roller so I am not concerned. Not this time though. The anchor steadfastly refuses to twist to its correct position despite my constant attempts to lower and raise it. I can’t understand what is going on, but one last try and the anchor starts to turn but then jams across the bow roller. It’s stuck fast and no amount of pushing or leaning over the bow and pulling is budging it. While I think this through I decide to retrieve the buoy and suddenly the culprit is uncovered. The buoy and the line are covered in six feet of thick seaweed. That doesn’t sound so bad but I can not lift it! This pull against the top of the anchor must have stopped it turning. There must be in excess of thirty kilos of seaweed attached. I tie the line off with the buoy next to the bow and retrieve my trusty boat hook to start peeling the layers of seaweed off, it is a difficult job at full stretch but eventually enough comes off for me to lift the buoy and clear the rest by hand. I can now detach the buoy from the partially but solidly stowed anchor. We’ll be bow to the pontoon in our home berth so I will sort this out later. It must have looked quite strange as we returned up the Orwell to Ipswich.
There really isn’t enough wind for Mariadz especially running with the wind so there will no sailing today 😦
The weather is glorious
though and a lot better than the two predictions I had shared with Maria so we are quite happy as we motor back at a steady 5-6 knots. We arrive back at Ipswich lock and it has gone 12:30, less than 30 mins to kick off. This is going to be tight. As Maria moneuvers Mariadz into her berth, Fraser, who runs the committee boat for the barge race comes to help us tie up. He does a great job and also resists the urge to point out the jaunty angle that our anchor has taken. What a lovely man.
We set up the tv to watch the game from the aft deck and the teams are coming out. We have made it just in time.
The game is a great success for England who lead 5-0 at half time. Now to sort out that anchor. With five minutes of effort I am able to manhandle the anchor and unjam it. It settles down perfectly for stowing since it no longer has a load of weight dragging it the wrong way. At least that isn’t a big problem! For the second half we are joined by Amanda and Mark who regale us with tales of watching two numptees make a hash of picking up a buoy on Friday night…. oh well that is undeniable then. I point out the near gale force winds, the full speed of the tide and Maria’s valiant attempts to balance Mariadz on a sixpence but they don’t stop giggling at us. The England game comes to a satisfactory conclusion at 6-1 and the drinks are flowing.
For some time, Maria has been nagging for a paddle board. I have resisted the urge to spend a lot of money on this until she has absolutely demonstrated that she can use one. We were due to have a trial in Antigua but this fell through. Considering everything else that we did, this probably wasn’t a bad thing. Discussing this with Amanda and Mark provided an interesting insight, Amanda loves it but Mark didn’t get on with the paddle board at all. To the extent, that he would gladly sell his board. So Maria gets to try a board and I have been stitched up again.
Maria does have to test drive the board though after a few drinks…. this should be funny! Firstly, Amanda shows how it is done and gracefully paddles around the Marina. Next up, Maria. Getting on the board from the bathing platform is pretty good but the next stage is key. Like surfing, you have to get up onto your feet and balanced, except surfing wasn’t too easy when we tried it eighteen months ago in Australia! Like a sprinter, Maria wiggles her bottom before getting to her feet, and she’s up! On the first attempt. Step two is to paddle and Maria is settling into this before deciding it is time to stand up. The last words before she face-planted into the water were – “I think I am getting the hang of this”. No amount of words can paint the comedic picture effectively. So here are a couple of videos:
So the end of a fantastic weekend with lovely sailing boats, relaxing times, no fish being caught and then the entertainment. It was good to get away from everything.
It is incredibly quiet on the river with the tide pushing us down the river and it feels like the holiday has started even though we have a full work day on Friday.
Both cats are relaxed and Maria is keeping an eye out as we motor downriver.
We get down to Suffolk Yacht Harbour at Levington and find all six of the mooring buoys opposite the marina are free. We pick up a buoy at the first attempt, admittedly having spun round it a little to start with as we initially approached it with the tide but Maria is able to turn Mariadz around on a six pence using the tide and I can grab the buoy. It is going to be an early night since we plan to be up at 5am the next morning, exactly as if we were travelling to London for work. Even going against the tide, we expect to arrive at Osea Island shortly after 10am.
Sunrise the next day over Levington is glorious as we get up at 5:15 and we are feeling good and happy. Those that know Maria in the morning will know that this is unusual!
When we go to Burnham, we have to cross the spitway but for Osea, we need to continue past Bradwell and into the Blackwater. Both of these routes require a little care because of the shallows, especially on a falling tide like today. So we tiptoe through the shallows to avoid having to take a bigger detour and subsequent delay. Looking at the track on our chart plotter, it looks like we have zigzagged in some kind of submarine avoidance manoeuvre. But as we emerge into the Blackwater, the clouds are breaking up and the sun is trying to break through. Now Maria can be a bit of a bad influence in these situations, asking whether we should just take the day off and have fun! She is a very naughty girl and I point out if work phone or email will she answer, of course the answer is yes, and so we won’t be taking the day off then!
There is still very little out on the water but with the prediction for the weather that will change over the weekend and I’m sure we will see a lot of the boats moored in Mersey coming down the river. This time I have tried to avoid the cliched Radio Caroline picture!
It’s just after 10am as we arrive in the anchorage and there is not a soul around. The weather is glorious and Maria selects her usual spot to anchor. This will be the first test of the new remote for the windlass….. of course it works, was there really any reason to doubt it. Within minutes the anchor is set, snubbers and anchor buoy deployed with the anchor ball flying.
We can settle down to get on with our work until mid afternoon when we can switch off, well we did start answering emails at 5:30am!
What do you do with those…clearly we have no idea. We don’t even know how to kill it never mind prepare it. I fall back to an approach we were given to kill fish – gin in the gills. But it seems the skate is quite liking this. We search the internet but are no closer to a decision on how to kill it. All of this combined with Maria’s opinion that it looked “too cute” means we retrieve the hooks and release it back into the water. It swims off but not in a straight line since it is probably drunk. I’m sure it will be back later with some mates asking for more gin and squid. That Mariadz, they know how to throw a fish party!
After dinner, we are sitting in the cockpit watching the sun go down over the island, where some other yachts have anchored and it is bliss. Unlike last night, we are out there beyond 9pm, dirty stop-outs!
day chilling either down below or in the cockpit which is now incredibly comfortable for them with new cushions and cat mats. However, at night, Bonnie in particular, comes alive and wants to go exploring her surroundings. She will walk the deck and sit on the bow peering out for hours before coming in for the night to chill.
At some stage we will have to put up nets on the guide wires around the deck to give us additional security and hopefully stop them falling in. At the moment we rig fenders with covers on each side of the boat so that they can claw themselves back on if necessary.
One of the problems with this part of the river is also one of its charms. The river is used by all types of watercraft and there seems to be little adherence to the speed limit of 8 knots by the speed boats and jet skis. Now that’s something I don’t get. I watch the jet skis going up and down, mostly in straight lines at great speed, at least thevisnt much of a wake to disturb us so it is just the engine noise.
They then turn around and do the same again. I used to enjoy driving sports cars but the thrill was the handling and acceleration rather than the outright speed in a straight line. I am now reminiscing about two seater soft tops and I won’t be allowed another one of those! Still each to their own and the jet skiers seem to be enjoying themselves even if they are spoiling our tranquility. To my mind though it’s a waste of fuel!
Water skiing, on the other hand, I can get especially if the person is very good, today though we mostly have people going up and down firmly hanging on rather than the acrobatics we have seen before.
Since we will be anchored for a while I decide to break out our hammock and rig it between the mast and the staysail. Using the chords that came with it,
I tie it to a secure spot on the mast and to the clearing on the stay sail. This makes it nice and high and I don’t think should be causing any damage. I am also able to persuade Maria that with our new svelt bodies , the rig should be able to take our combined weight, dubiously she gives it a go! It’s a lovely relaxing day and I break it up by taking pictures of the passing watercraft like some kind of demented yacht equivalent of a train spotter. Still it keeps me occupied 🙂 .
They arrive and we find them somewhere to park, not easy in this part of Maldon! A quick drink before donning life jackets for the trip back. Connie the rib (named after Clyde and Bonnie incidentally) is quite lightweight with a 20hp Suzuki injection outboard. However, we are now four up in her with an overnight bag and some essential supplies that they have brought – looks like alcohol and snacks to me! Even flat out we are only making six knots so it is going to be a leisurely trip back to Mariadz. At least we can see all the sights! As we return to the anchorage to Mariadz in all her glory, the area Ian noticeably busier than it was when we left.
This was the couple we met last August when we were last at Osea and we had a great time. When they arrive a little later in the afternoon, they come on board for a few drinks and of course they are no empty handed… oh dear this could get messy…. again!
Russ is apparently a very accomplished fisherman and so Maria takes advantage to get a fishing lesson despite her success with skate the day before. After several hours the catch is a little underwhelming – skate, 0 sea bass, 0 whiting, 0 mackerel. But i am sure Maria has learnt some useful techniques.
It’s gone mid day and the tide has turned again as the water rushes back into the river. Everyone is chilled and their have been no bites on the fishing lines, unless you count a small crab which decided to steal the bait. We are rally’s relaxed, fed and washed. In fact Denise, is dozing in the hammock so another triumph for Mariadz’s ability to get people to rest.
We make good speed on the way back to Maldon, but it is quite shallow….and now it is very shallow…. I hear a slight change in the outboard note, that will be mud then. The electric tilt on the outboard comes into its own as a raise the prop as high as I can but we will still have half a mile to go. We have a portable Gardiner navigation device which is fitted to the rib and it claims that I should have two feet of water at this point but this clearly isn’t true as we stop dead on the mud in the middle of the channel. Maybe we should have left I think a little later. A trip least we are on a rising tide so we are not going to be left high and dry or stuck for too long. We break out the one oar that comes with the walker bay rib, that wouldn’t be any use in an emergency. Kirk checks the depth and a fewminutes later we are free of the mud but we will go into Maldon very tentatively. Comically Kirk is still paddling with the oar but he is assisted by a 20hp engine so it isn’t too difficult. As we round the last bend into Maldon we are greeted by a small band of water and a lot of mud.
There is no way we can get close to the pontoon. There is another pontoon slightly downstream but even that is 20-30 minutes away from having enough wate for us to land. Kirk dips his toe into the mud to see if it is walkable but even with a little weight on it, he isn’t getting enough resistance to give him confidence that he won’t sink up to his waist. So we are stuck in the boat and waiting for the tide. Now we have two anchors on the rib and I decide that to save fuel we will deploy an anchor while we wait. That works fine, once it gets a grip, but obviously looked quite strange from the banks of the river. Still it gave us a nice view of the Thames barges with Maldon behind, clearly that is why we did it! There is even a strip of mud around each of the Thames barges. Some very friendly gentlemen on these ask us if we are waiting to disembark and want to offer some help but we can’t work out a way we could get off and have to wait. It gives us ample time to consider that with the tide being an hour-ish later, we have effectively arrived in Maldon an hour and a half earlier in tides terms. One to remember for another time. The water is rising slowly and eventually we decide that we will do the whole marines beach approach and run Connie up the mud to the pontoon. On the first attempt I get deflected away from the pontoon and have to approach straighter. The second time we are bang on and nestle into the pontoon. We attach some lines and head up the pontoon to …. a locked gate. Oh! It looks climbable! So three fifty something’s climb the gate to get out, I’ll have to consider how I do that for the return. We get some fuel and Kirk returns me to the gate I am able to clamber over and he can then pass me the fuel, my grab bag and some beautiful roses that’s they got for Maria, forgot and left in the car.
Now I know it isn’t windy and I’m sure it is perfectly safe but I just don’t get it. The one deployed anchor will not be sized for three boats so I am grateful that should they drag, they will slip by us nicely since we are not on their line. I guess you shouldn’t judge people by your own standards and they settle down for their own fun evening.
Russ and Sarah also join us and we have an entertaining early evening bathed in sunshine. John and Linda return to Amarelle, but the party continues on the bow of Mariadz. Music is playing and there is the obligatory Amy Winehouse songs sung at the island 🙂
as a form of motorhome karaoke. Unfortunately, Warner music decided that Maria sounded too much like Dolly Parton and had the soundtrack removed as a breach of copyright. I did ask them to reinstate it or sign us up but never got a reply. On this particular
evening there has clearly been too much alcohol…..It is time! Dolly and Kenny aka Mariadz are in full voice – a Capella – ban that, Warner Music! 🙂 I believe it goes some way to demonstrating that we are not deserving of the record deal quite yet…..
At the same time, Maria is chatting up two gentlemen who drift by fishing. She offers them a cup of tea or a beer, (at this time darling!) but they decline as they try to get their rig sorted. Just one of those random events on the water but it tickles Maria.
It is very still as we proceed down the Blackwater and we see more people out early on a bank holiday enjoying the day, including a group of speed boats who have stopped on a beach which is a sand bank exposed by the low tide. They’ll only get a few hours but it looks pretty cool on a scorching day.
It seems to be standing proud but looks very strange, I’d love to know what the story was here. It could be an optical illusion and be a bulge keel sitting comfortably on its twin keels but we couldn’t tell from where we were and it would have been far too shallow for Mariadz to get close safely. The wind has picked up a bit and having had a sail jam last time out, we are keen to make sure that the mainsail is back to its normal trouble free self. So we have full main and staysail out as we turn up the wallet and of course the wind is pretty much on the nose. However my wind instruments are showing this a little differently. In fact they are showing the wind to one side and the sail is showing it on the other side. Well that will not do. The great thing about our self tacking staysail is that it gets pushed to an end of the track depending on where the wind is, when it is in the middle the apparent wind is dead centre. I use this to help with the adjustment although the apparent wind shown on my instruments is based on speed through the water rather than speed over ground, the difference should be negligible. I have adjusted it and we can now see just how close to the wind we are as we travel up the wallet.
We make our way into the Orwell and shortly after the wind dies. It’s time to take the sails in since they are doing nothing and we don’t want them damaged by flogging.
Maria is disappointed that she hasn’t seen any seals or porpoises today and so focuses on seeing cormorant, which is a little easier!
We pass through the lock on the last of freeflow and as we arrive at our berth our friend and next door neighbour Linda comes out to take a line and help us come in.
In the summer and especially at anchor, we often stay in the cockpit watching the world go by, chatting and listening to music.
The cats are settled and like being close as they sleep. We are all really relaxed. With the built in stereo system still temporarily unavailable, see later blog, we are using the amazon echo to play the music. This has the added advantage of being voice controlled :). It’s a lovely evening and we may have enjoyed a couple of drinks and maybe even a little dance after it got dark but thankfully it is not too late a night since we are both shattered from the working week. Just before dark, one of the scout training yachts decides to anchor near to us, actually in our traditional spot near to the cardinal buoy.
They have a reputation of bouncing off people but we haven’t personally experienced it and the skippers seem very nice when you meet them. Apparently, on this occasion they were concerned that they may have disturbed our tranquility in the evening. They clearly don’t know Mariadz at all 🙂
Now I don’t think this sounds too difficult, surely you go to the freezer, pick out the packet, put it on the side – dinner caught! But apparently, Maria has different ideas. She has gone to the freezer as I thought but she gets out the squid and puts it next to the worms, she is fishing for supper! Now with our standard amount of success in this area, it is certain that we are going to starve but it is ok since we have food available on the “off chance” Maria is unsuccessful.
It takes Maria some time to set up the two rods but she is pottering around having a great time and looking relaxed without a care in the world so I am not going to complain. It’s not as if she’s going to catch anything so it will be a nice relaxing day!
And then suddenly, the rod moves, and Maria gets excited…. she heads over to the port side rod and wow, she has only gone and caught something. It is time for Maria’s caught a fish song! Now the interesting thing about Maria’s “I caught a fish” song is that apart from the “I have caught a fish” chorus, every other lyric in the song starts with the letter “f” and is a word normally deleted in polite company. Unfortunately I don’t have video evidence, not that I could show until after the watershed! But it’s ok, because she follows up this crowd favourite with a haunting second song, now this one I do have on video!
Another relaxed evening chatting and, it has to be said, that since Maria’s weight loss, dancing has featured a lot again. She’s happy 🙂
It is slowly coming out just using sail tension and the furler now and Maria is keeping a watchful eye as well as keeping an eye on our course and other water users.
We make the turn at Felixstowe towards Ipswich with the wind directly behind us. This disappoints Clyde who was really enjoying the sea air.
We haven’t seen many other yachts for a while, obviously laying in a trail of dust behind us! But up ahead, we have Lister Light again, that’s two weekends on the trot. They are drifting nicely down river having a leisurely sail with Sally at the helm. To be fair I really wanted to pass them on the “wrong” side so we could get a better lit picture but at least the got a good one of us just before we took the sails down.
Hang on, don’t we have two gorgeous fish we can eat….straight on the BBQ in foil with our own Italian olive oil, lemon and vegetables.
The Alma is a lovely pub that sells very fresh lobster and beautiful cuts of beef, all listed on a blackboard, when it’s gone, it’s gone! The food as always was really nice. We had a cracking evening chatting which was capped off beautifully with a quick dance to a live band – Lars and Laura know how to make an exit. The obligatory exchange of a few presents including our crew t-shirts for our friends. In the picture is their very own “Anne Plummer”, she’s a very popular artist, don’t you know!
It does amaze us though how comfortable the cats are on the boat. No matter what the conditions, they seem happy and relaxed. When it is bad they stay quite close to us for reassurance but when it is a nice day like today they stretch lazily and chill. We have a number of friends who have commented that they don’t necessarily believe in reincarnation but if they did,
and could choose, they would like to return as Maria’s cat – spoilt isn’t the word!
The final job is to raise the anchor ball that tells everyone during the day that we are anchored. This is attached half way up a spinnaker line run down to the deck, we hoist it about ten feet up so that it is easily seen. Obviously at night the anchor light at the top of the mast is illuminated so that people know where we are. These signs usually work very well and people know where you are and keep clear. Unless of course they are a blue hulled scouts boat, in which case you need to switch on the spreader spotlights and everything else you have got before they hit you!
We decide to stay up in the cockpit as Maria prepares the feast of fish which is our lunch and dinner, or so we thought. As you can see from the picture, Maria has a little furry friend. Now Clyde is rather partial to prawns and demands them as an almost daily treat. When Maria brought the platter up, Clyde stirred. Ah, treat time and wow what a great selection. What shall I have first mummy? Maria of course obliges and starts feeding him lobster. LOBSTER! Is there another word that is more than spoilt… hmm a very lucky cat.
The sun is going down and as we look down the river we see lister Light with the young Thompson family on board. yeah that ones for you Sally 🙂 you owe us.
So our neighbours who are 250 metres away from us in Ipswich are the same distance from us in the stour. But wow doesn’t their boat look great in that light.
While the Thompson’s have their own great evening, we are settled down listening to music. It’s a lovely evening with a variety of music and we go to bed at a reasonable time. Of course with Maria that is any time before 4am – but it was early even by these standards!
Obviously that changes the weather and of course it starts to rain but not before I get the rail mount fitted and the bbq fitted. Really convenient, now if only the food would cook quicker!
Maria gently pulled Mariadz out of her berth to head towards the lock and Mark from Motion took a pic for us. Shortly after the picture was taken we noticed that the satellite dish was still up, just ahead of the mast! Better get that in before we go too far down the river!
Progress is slow and there are very few other boats out. We are
against tide and wind and we travel down the wallet quite slowly (for us). I’m not too worried since we will arrive at the Spitway at the bottom of Gunfleet sands after low tide as expected and it does give us a chance to get some good shots of boats coming the other way with the wind and tide.
the opportunity to see seals bathing on the mud. Today there are relatively few, we have seen nearly a hundred before but there was a nice group gathered for a coffee morning and chat. Soon after this we see an ocean rowing boat. We later discover that this is team Kung Fu Cha Cha who are intending to be the only Chinese team in the Talisker Whiskey Atlantic
Challenge this year. They seemed to be doing pretty well on their warm up run up the crouch and the AIS track showed good speed :). We will definitely be following this team in the upcoming race.
and we will need to be careful, no cutting the corners today! Maria realises that she will have to come in and as she passes between the entrance poles, she will have to turn hard to starboard and then let the wind push Mariadz onto the pontoon controlling her with the bow thruster and using the engine to line her up with the hammerhead. Maria is a little apprehensive in the twenty knot wind but she handles the boat well and I am confident that we will do fine if we communicate well. On the final approach into the marina, the water is shallow and the alarm goes off. For one second we are thinking we may run into the mud at the entrance and be stuck for some time waiting to be floated off by the tide – you know every man and his dog would have chosen that time to come into the marina – and you don’t want to be the gnome greeting everyone at the entrance! There are no such concerns as Maria negotiates the last of the approach and puts the wheel hard to starboard before starting to take the speed off the boat. A bit of straightening up with the bow thruster and minor adjustment to line up with the hammerhead and we drift gently into position. I step off and we are tied quite quickly. A little after lunchtime but Maria gets her afternoon moored or tied up….lucky girl.
The E/F pontoon hammerhead is our usual and favoured berth at Burnham but the pontoon feels shorter than we remember, we are therefore overhanging on both sides so we will need to think carefully about how we tie up. I catch up with Bruce who explains that another similar sized boat will come in the next day and could we make this easier by moving forward when they come in before returning to our normal position afterwards. We absolutely understand the issues with manoeuvring in the tight spaces and we offer to give them a hand when they arrive. Our friend Lisa has also come to stay for the weekend so the cats will get spoilt too.
This takes several hours but by the end of it Mariadz is looking beautiful for all of ten minutes! This is an issue at Burnham. The marina is very nice, we have met some great people there and the carnival weekend is always excellent but there is an issue with birds – not Essex girls but Hitchcock level birds. They look lovely as they fly around and at one stage we saw thirty starlings on the spreaders and standing rigging of one boat which made it look like a Christmas tree.
However, these birds seem to eat a lot of red and black berries…..so shortly after I have finished the deck, it looks like Prince’s mythical Purple Rain has happened. I have cleaned the windows and I am not doing that again, so we will put up with it until the end of the weekend when I clean Mariadz down after our journey.
I am there to take lines if needed but she comes to lie so gently against the pontoon that we have all day to get her tied off. Maria can then start the engine of Mariadz and we can put her back to her old position with stern coming out as far as the boats on the long pontoon and the bow slightly overhanging the next entrance. We have a nice chat and later a few drinks with the crew of Sweet Surrender before coming back to Mariadz for a gorgeous home made fish pie, prepared by Maria but with top quality ingredients sourced (or sauced) by Adam. It’s going to be a long weekend so an early night is called for but not before Maria asks whether I can get the satellite dish setup so she can record some programmes over the weekend. Now in a domestic setup, a clever engineer, works out where to point the dish when the system is setup and you never need to think about it. On a boat or motorhome, every time you move you need to reposition the dish, and in a boat you need to make sure you are tied well or the dish will move and lose the signal. On one of our trips to a motorhome show, Maria had decided to get rid of the old standard dish and replaced it with a
Just before we go there is a little excitement as one of the ocean rowing teams, not our Chinese friends, is brought in by the RNLI. There is a little concern at how bad it is out there but Mariadz can take it so hopefully we wont be needing the RNLI services later.
concerned that this may push us onto the bowsprit of Sweet Surrender but we have agreed to spring off from the bow which take us away at 30 degrees from the pontoon. All the fenders are in place and we have a little help from our new friends. This was a little fortunate as I hadn’t moved the bow spring far enough back onto the pontoon but we were able to pause the manoeuvre, move the line and start again. We come off fine so although not exactly text book, everything is good. Maria then takes Mariadz astern and with a hard starboard turn we are through the exit and into the river. This gives me the opportunity to stow the fenders on the mast pulpits (granny bars) again. Unfortunately our departure coincides with a yacht race down the Crouch so Maria slows down and we follow the race down river. There is some minor concern as the racers approach their turn and we momentarily think that the course may return directly back down the river and straight at us but they pass on our port side presenting some good photo opportunities.
As we came out of the Crouch we saw the only other sailing boat that we would see all day coming back in under ominous black clouds. At this stage, even with much reduced sail, we are flying along at 8.5knots with the wind on the beam. Soon we will be turning towards the Wallet and over the Spitway, which this time has lots of water over it. As we turn, I take advantage of the change in the wind angle to take in the headsail, the other two are easy to get in if we need to and those clouds could be accompanied by even more wind. To be fair the reduced sail didn’t harm our speed much and we still bumbled along at a good seven knots for the whole journey but it gave us piece of mind. First though the Wallet, which is affectionately called “vomit alley” was incredibly rolly, with waves going across our beam but at least the tide and wind were in the same direction.
completely empty, there must have been real concerns over the weather because normally the river is busy at this time. We head up but lose a bit of time because of the variability of the wind, we are not too bothered and by this time Maria has put the roast dinner in the oven so it will be ready when we arrive in Ipswich.
We pass the two large containers unloading on the newest docks at Felixstowe, each over 1,000 feet long and we are gently motoring towards the wallet and the gunfleet windfarm. The southerly wind is in our faces but we know the turn to south west into the Wallet will give us the opportunity to get some sail up and motorsail at the very least. So a couple of hours into our journey and we are ready to get some sail up and with little wind, it’s gonna be all the sail -main, yankee and stay sail! Even against the tide we are making reasonable progress down the Wallet, which is incredibly busy giving an opportunity to get the camera out and take action pics of the boats.
awful lot of moored yachts and motorboats at Clacton. From a distance this almost looks like a pop-up Marina but as you get closer you can see there are quite big gaps between the boats. We have friends anchored off and other friends watching from the beach so hopefully they all saw us as well as the planes!
We are on the look out for other friends amongst the anchored boats but I think they must be a sniper in camouflage since they were able to get a shot of us but I couldn’t see them. I later find that there had been more bikini-clad women waving to me, sorry to at I missed it this time. 🙂
We keep going at a reasonable pace with the intention of getting to Osea at about 7:30pm, a little late if there is a problem anchoring or the anchorage is full but we have been here a few times and never had a problem before. As you negotiate the gap at Colne bank, you can see the Bradwell Nuclear Power Station in front of you and it is another couple of hours down the blackwater, against the tide, to get to Osea. The river is quite quiet this evening and we make good progress, still motor sailing but with the wind having shifted slightly to South Easterly giving us some assistance from the sails as we progress down the river. We go past Radio Caroline, which I didn’t realise was still broadcasting,
one time we will have to try and get it on the radio when we go past! We arrive at Osea at the time we expected and start setting the anchor, I have remembered to attach the anchor float so that we know where the anchor is, the snubber is attached and holds the chain below the waterline which helps with keeping the anchor and boat comfortable and protects our top sides from the chain.
Finally, the anchor ball goes up and the anchor light is on so we are ready to settle down for a quiet evening as Bradwell gentle glows in the distance behind us 😉. Having lived in Tollesbury, on the other side of the river, for six years, I guess I shouldn’t worry too much about the Bradwell glow! We are up on deck quite late enjoying the tranquility so no music for us or Maria belting out tunes! She must be tired. Maria’s actually in bed by ten but that probably isn’t a bad thing and means that she will be rested for the weekend.
The morning is magnificent, sunny and still, at least until the water skiers turn up mid morning! We decide that before everywhere gets too busy we will move to a better spot. The place we chose last night meant at low tide we were within seven metres of one of the buoys, Maria doesn’t like that so we move further down the river where it is a little shallower but with more room. The move is uneventful and we are settled back down with the float out, snubber on and anchor watch application keeping an eye on us.
Before we go we take a few pictures of Mariadz looking regal in the river. And we’re off. It’s actually quite a nice trip on a rising tide although the garmin keeps telling me this would be shallow normally, but with the tide we are fine. However, we are being very careful, as always, and stay to the channel in the centre. This is quite ridiculous as we find when we get to Maldon. Our rib, Connie, probably needs about 30cm of water, compared to the 180cm of Mariadz.
As we arrive in Maldon, we see a lot of the Thames Barges that we see in the Orwell! Maybe I didn’t need to worry about the depth…. having lived in Tollesbury for so long and spent a couple of years driving through Maldon to get to work – I didn’t know anything about the riverside area at all and it looks really nice. My first experience is to go to the two pubs on the waterfront, having left the rib on the small
visitors pontoon. This works well as we arrive to an empty pontoon, but soon after the world and his wife have decided to come to Maldon, so I had to keep going back to make sure that little Connie didn’t get crushed by anybody and to move her so that others could squeeze in. We all work together and by moving things around we get everyone into the pontoon. This includes some new friends on a small yacht who made contact with land a couple of metres short of the pontoon! We waited a few minutes for the tide to lift them from the mud and then could bring them into the pontoon rather than being stuck out there 🙂
later we saw them sailing back up the blackwater “refreshed”.
We’re back in time for sunset, a lovely BBQ and some time with the cats who have missed us. Sunset is amazing with the sky turning a deep red, I promise there is no filter on the photograph. Then as we are finishing dinner, a couple of guys from an adjacent boat are pottering around in their inflatable and come to say hi, I suspect that we will be chatting more tomorrow…. especially as we can hear them laughing and joking on their boat anchored nearby!
Anyway, 30 minutes later and we are all clean and tidy. Now the real work of sunbathing and relaxing can begin. Oh and maybe a cheeky glass of wine. Our new friends in the anchorage pop up river for a sail, there isn’t any wind though 😉, and on their return we invite them onto Mariadz to properly introduce ourselves before hitting the beach later for a barbecue. For one of the crew, it is her first time on water, and she is not comfortable doing the ride to Mariadz in their inflatable.
I offer to pop over in the rib to collect her and come back nice and slowly so as not to worry her. I throw the line back to Mariadz but the combination of my poor throw and a missed catch means that the rope is in the water. Instinctively, I reverse back so that I can retrieve the line, why did I do that! The line gets nicely wrapped around the prop of the rib and the engine stops. After switching off the ignition, I lift the engine and unwrap the line as we drift slowly down the river. Lowering the engine and restarting works fine and we can try and do a better job of it this time! We get my passenger safely on board and we can add another unique experience to our boating life. To be fair it was quite quick to resolve the issue and if it hadn’t have been, I would have been able to deploy the anchor quite quickly too while I solved it (or ended up rowing back to Mariadz…. with one oar…. against a stong tide). Let’s just be grateful that no damage was done!
The anchorage is now getting busy too but we have been here a night already so hopefully the other boats will anchor in a way that doesn’t cause us any problems. Not that is an issue for us, we like to have access to the decks and so we deploy our fenders which has the added benefit of giving the cats a way to get back on board if they did fall in. It must look strange and unnerving though when you anchor close to a boat that has their fender deployed, not much confidence in anchoring ability being demonstrated there!
We are now on a falling tide with low tide scheduled to be about 11pm but we are not worried about such things…..yet. Maria goes off “hunting for wood” but it must be hiding because she comes back with only a small twigs. It is ok though as we all go off and forage for wood for the fire and soon with some liquid help it is roaring, a little like us!
Maria’s brought some music and a speaker, although thankfully not the full karaoke setup, so music is playing and it is a lovely evening. We are eating quite late but everyone is having a good time.
although I will admit it isn’t the best picture in the world! Maria became an excited school girl when she saw it! Really sweet as she spontaneously bursts into tears.
In just over an hour we are tied up to a mooring buoy, the Prosseco has been broken out and the girls are starting to relax. We settle down to watch the sunset over the River Orwell as our pork chops cook in the galley. At the age of 72, Adam’s Dad has discovered Facebook. His regular posts on the recovery of Adam’s Mum from a stroke in March, help us all understand the progress and the difficulty of these long term recoveries. It is clear from his latest update that today has been a hard day and we agree to facetime him to have a face-to-face chat over the internet. Two hours later, dinner has been switched off, alcohol has been consumed and we are all still chatting but Dad is in a better place and his favourite daughter outlaw (in joke I’m afraid) is now past eating. A few more drinks and a bit more chatting and it is time for bed before we head to Osea Island the next day – I never get my own way 🙂
This is the Ross Revenge which is the boat that used to broadcast Radio Caroline in the North Sea during the Eighties. This was after the first Radio Caroline ship, Mi Amigo, had sunk which is remarkably similar to the story for the “The Boat That Rocked”, although apparently this is a coincidence! So a little bit of history to enjoy as you sail past. There are then a large number of moored boats before you get to the anchorage at Osea Island. We arrive shortly before 6pm, right on low water, and with only five other boats spread around the anchorage find a good spot and start to drop anchor. In one respect arriving at low water has the advantage of simplifying the calculations for the anchor chain although it does mean that we did not benefit from the tide at any stage!
although on this occasion I forget to attach the anchor ball to the anchor to help with
location and retrieval in an emergency. Time to relax again, as the sun goes down and out comes the Prosecco and the raspberry gin – hmmm, theme developing here. Our friends are at Brightlingsea listening to music and send us a video, the singing doesn’t sound the best if we’re honest and doesn’t compare to the band we can hear on Osea Island where there must be a wedding
or large summer party. It’s a lovely, still, warm evening as we settle down. For the second night, the fishing rods are shut firmly in their carrier and my Dad FaceTimes us and we talk for ages and Bonnie chills on deck.
Maria has taught him to do a high five for treats, he likes to practice this a lot and he has the girls wrapped around his little paw! He gets treats.
Clyde is now being a bit cheeky and trying his “come to bed” eyes on Lisa!
they are falling behind as we start to catch up with a couple of smaller boats ahead of us. We travel up the wallet passing Walton, Frinton and Clacton which all look very different from the sea.
As we pass Shotley we notice our good friends the Thompson family from Ipswich, coming back up river. They have taken on an amazing project and are living aboard while they renovate their boat before going off travelling. It is an ambitious project but they are committed and we are really pleased to think of them as friends.
We anchor in a familiar spot and have a quiet evening.
The traditional arrival drink, a beer, is ready and this time in our new hand painted glasses! We also got some good news about a potential new role for me so all is right in our world as we settle down to a dinner of steak.
The other end could be held on a masthead cleat and I have been able to set up the hammock in a way acceptable to her majesty, siting on her throne at the chart table.
Maria is not one to say I told you so but within ten minutes the rain is lashing down, the wind has turned and it is blowing over 30 knots. Not the best weather to go on the foredeck and put out the anchor. We decide to float around while the thunderstorm passes, Maria also points out that where we were is still bathed in sunshine and it wasn’t her idea to move! She points this out quite vociforously. With limited visibility, I take over the boat and decide to check out exactly where we will be anchoring when the weather improves.
Quite a few people ask us about how the cats are on the boat,
particularly when we are doing longer journeys or the weather isn’t good. Bonnie and Clyde have grown up around boats and are very relaxed, on passages they will generally be in the cockpit with Maria and I or asleep downstairs. You can see how stessed they were at the height of the storm. It isn’t long before the thunder stops, well after three storms roll through, and the weather starts to improve and Maria takes over so that i can set up our anchor gear.
the strain on the boat and anchor, and several other snubbers making sure that even if we have a problem the windlass is never exposed to the yank of the chain. Anchor ball up and we are ready for our evening. When the rain was lashing down earlier, we had taken a look at our BBQ food and thought we may be in trouble here! With
the change in weather we decided to have a Thai dinner rather than cooking in the rain and wind.
Later that day, we are “hanging”. It’s a lovely day, but a bit breezy. However, my hangover is not shifting and I go back to bed for a little while. While I am asleep, Maria chats to Amanda Furber, and agrees that we should all get together – I just need to pick them up from Harwich (4 miles away) in the rib like I am a taxi! I’m still not in a great state but I am sure the river ride will sort that out! While deploying the rib, there is a momentary stutter from the Davits as the motor stops and just clicks. But it comes back, so another one to put on the list of things that need to be checked. Just before leaving, Maria asks me how we are doing for fuel. On the rib, we have the main tank that feeds the engine and a reserve five litre can which is always full. The wind is blowing down the river towards Harwich and there is quite a swell. This doesn’t bode well for the return journey but getting there should be fine. We have only done a few miles so I’m sure the fuel is fine…..of course I get a mile downriver and the engine cuts out as the main tank is empty! so it’s lift the seats get the two cans out and transfer fuel from the reserve to the main tank, all while being rolled around, beam onto the waves.
Refuel complete, I can restart the engine and get to Halfpenny pier to pick up my fare. Amanda and Mark are waiting on the pier when I arrive. I throw the rubbish into the bins and am ready to go. But Mark has a cunning plan, he will drive the car to Wrabness, slightly up river from us and I can get him there, it will be a shorter journey. Amanda joins me in the rib and we start to head off back to Mariadz. I may have mentioned that it was blowing 15-20 knots and the waves are quite deep, probably a metre from the tip to the bottom. We are making progress but it is not particularly comfortable. On the way to collect Amanda, I had remained dry for the entire journey, that wasn’t the case on the return. Amanda acted as a good water and wind break but I still got wet. Her back was also aching from the constant banging up and down and together we arrived at Mariadz wet and tired. Reading that last sentence back I should probably reiterate that this was a journey in the rib and nothing rude! I drop off Amanda and call Mark to find out where he is. He is on the far side of Wrabness with the beach houses and the mooring buoys. He has waded out to knee height as I approach and climbs in and we have a comfortable ride back to the boat with the wind and waves at our backs. On return to Mariadz, we go to the stern and decide to lift the rib back onto the Davits to avoid the rib banging the back of the boat overnight. We are clipped on but the stutter we had previously seems to be here to stay and the davits wont work. The rib is up enough for overnight and we decide to check it out in the morning.
promising ourselves and we all settle down to a lovely evening in the cockpit chatting, eating and drinking. Mark is quite tired and bails responsibly early, i.e. before midnight, but Amanda has the bit in her teeth…. and a few drinks in her tummy. It is 3am (again) when we eventually all decide it is time for bed – someone will be feeling a little worse for wear tomorrow. The next morning we are up reasonably early since we need to get Mark and Amanda back to Wrabness. At this stage, Mark and I are beginning to think that since I added the 5 or 6 litres of fuel into the tank we have travelled six miles to and from Harwich and a couple of miles return to Wrabness which is now being repeated. It should be fine…. and I will fill up both tanks when I return to Ipswich. We get enough from the davits to drop the rib again but they are still playing up. It is a bit calmer for the journey back to Wrabness and I am able to drop them off quite close to the beach at high tide and they wade back in.
It is a sight. I call Maria to come and take a look with Mariadz on autopilot and tracking down the middle of the Stour. As we return from the bow, Maria notices more white smoke than is usual coming from our exhaust. We check the temperature of the engine and it is above the normal working temperature. We reduce revs as I go down below to check out what is going on in the engine room. I am greeted by quite a warm engine room. At the best of times the engine room is a “no shirt zone” and this was hotter than usual. The water strainer on the aft bulkhead is completely green inside and it seems obvious that this is blocking water getting through to the engine. I explain the situation to Maria and we decide to get some sail up quickly and switch the engine off while I try and fix it. The clear lids on water strainers on Marine engines are great things, they allow you to see exactly what is going on. However, they do have a tendency to stick fast, especially if there has been any heat. Needless to say I can’t budge it.
We test the engine and we have flow and a six inch piece of weed goes straight into the strainer! At least we know what happened. Having removed this, the lid comes off without the threat of “the rope”, and put everything back together again we’re ready to go.

We have a lovely sail down the Orwell as the sun reaches the horizon.
In fact Bonnie is taking her “watch” very seriously keeping a look out for traffic and dangers.
However, we are late and sunset, in our wake, is a full half hour before we arrive.
We mention what happened the night before but the other yacht has got away early and didn’t bother to pay, hmmmm the problem with the honesty system I discussed during our Easter trip. Mike remembers us from previous visits and reminds us to make sure the boat is locked with the keys away, not because of any crime issue in Harwich, just because he likes Mariadz and would be tempted to take her out :). Mike’s also part of the RNLI at Harwich which is one of the charities we always give to, hopefully not for selfish reasons!
We hope we never need their help but what they do, and the bravery they show, is amazing. I mention to Mike our plans for the weekend with Jean and he says he will put out the “no mooring” signs so that our berth is protected if we go out. The wind is blowing a southerly at 15-20 knots, perfect for a little sail down the Stour and back, but it will be Jean’s first time on the boat and we don’t want to run before we can walk.
Toward the back end of the day Queen Galadrial, a Thames barge, takes her place on the outside of the pier. Apparently she is normally at the west end but today she takes up the space between us and the ferry berth.
As she is coming right at you with the battering ram that is her bowsprit, you hope that they stop before they hit you. Needless to say there is nothing to worry about and she finishes a metre off of Mariadz’s bow.
The local fisherman also come in with lobster and crab. We are strangely conflicted here because the lobster will be amazing but when you are sailing you have to be very careful of the, sometimes poorly marked, lobster pots.
So one minute you are celebrating the fishermen and at other times you are cursing them. On the whole though, the lobster is too good to miss out on, and the fishermen are always very good with their boat handling, so respect and gratitude is due. Today in Harwich, we had another “water-user” too. A group of jet-skis came in from the sea entrance. In common with a lot of things, there were two types of person in this group.
The responsible, considerate person wearing a helmet and the idiot with the fountain of spray from their exhaust, that didn’t seem to notice or care, where their spray or wake went. One thing we have learnt is that this second type of inconsiderate person are always around, unfortunately. They go without causing too much noise or trouble but it is unusual to see the two types of person in one group, in an often criticised form of water sport. Other yachts, and passers by, come and go and we also have the regular
ferry journeys to Felixstowe and Shotley. It is always interesting to catch up with these people and to understand their stories as well as discuss our hopes and plans. Around about lunchtime on Sunday, Jean has to go home, but we all agree it has been a nice time and a good first meeting with Mariadz. Jean has promised to return and we will take her sailing and also get her behind the wheel.
decide we will leave early afternoon and sail up the river with the gusty south easterly behind us. However the winds are gusting well over thirty knots and so we decide that we will only have a third of the main and the headsail out, this means a little slower progress but also means that a strong gust will not overpower us. As we enter the River Orwell, we make the turn past Felixstowe towards Levington and the wind is nicely on our beam. Even with little sail, and no engine, we are bounding along at eight knots with just a little help from the river. As we go up river, the wind angle does present some challenges though. One of the things we have been taught, and learnt well, is to rig a gybe protector. This is required if the wind is behind you, because a relatively small shift of the wind can catch the other side of the mainsail, smashing the boom across the boat. This is dangerous for people – do not get your head in the way of a flying boom – and also for the boat, because of the power being thrown around and the potential impact on the rig. So we tie a line from the back of the boom tightly to the forward mid-cleat on that side which is enough to stop the boom crashing across if the wind shifts. Of course coming up a river with hills, trees etc, there are lots of wind channels that can throw the direction of the wind so we always rig this as a precaution. We are having a lovely, and safe, sail up the river, in fact we are working quite hard, as we tack the headsail around from time to time, sometimes goosewinged, with the two sails on opposite sides of the boat, and sometimes sailing with both sails on the same side. Progress, since that first tack with the wind on the beam, is slower and we take a couple of hours to get up the river. Obviously not so slow that another cruising yacht overtakes us….Maria wouldn’t stand for that but still slower than we are accustomed. As we approach the lock there is no let up in the gusts, which means that Mariadz is being pushed away from the pontoon in the lock, but Maria has it all under control.
our first time through the lock for ages is uneventful, although we are clearly a little rusty and the tying up on the pontoon in the lock isn’t quite as unhurried and calm as usual as we get slightly blown on and Maria has to make a couple of
adjustments to get us away from the pontoon and then back on it. After a long time in the lock (there is a lot of water to move), we are on our way.
We have had to do this on a “sailing holidays” boat before so we are not worried about it at all, Mariadz will tell us if she isn’t happy with the wind. There is nothing on the river at this time, a couple of hours before sunset, and it is very peaceful.
I had spoken to Nick, one of the harbourmasters at Harwich and he said that we can use the ferry berth if the pier is full because we are away early in the morning. We also have to post our overnight fee through his door – you have to love the trust and honesty system on the East coast of the UK. We pass Felixstowe and start heading to Harwich to find the outside of Halfpenny Pier completely empty. Maria approaches into the tide and wind and gently ferry glides Mariadz onto the pier and I tie her off. The wind is actually a fair bit stronger than we expected, blowing around 15-20 knots, so actually it is not as if we really need to tie her off, she is pinned against the pier anyway. Still tied off and with all fenders on the pier side, we are ready to get changed for dinner.
All five of them were staying on a twenty footer which he’d described as his yacht when they met. I don’t think it was quite what she was expecting when she first went aboard but they seemed very happy and we had a lovely chat. The cats may also have got a few treats from the kitchen too 🙂 I’m not sure it is anything we can do with Bonnie and Clyde but the cats were really well behaved, happy and loved. At the end of another gorgeous meal, we returned to the boat and settled down for the night ready for our early start the next day and the trip down to North Kent.
like a bouncer guarding the Thames and is similar to Sealand, the principality in the North Sea that we often end up sailing around if we go across the channel. These were anti-aircraft platforms during the war apparently but look imposing structures on guard permanently and should be painted black for the full doorman effect. Fortunately it looks like our name is on the list so we can keep going. After this you see the Maunsell Navy Forts which look like Martian tripods from War of the Worlds but from our angle it looks like one has been ostracised – not quite sure what it said but it looks very sorry for itself.
It still takes another hour and a half for us to get into the River Medway and as we enter the river we see several yellow buoys and some masts protruding through the water. This is the SS Montgomery, a munitions ship that sank in 1944 and still has 1,400 tonnes of explosives on board. We’ll tip-toe past that then! We are now looking for the creeks since we have decided to anchor in one of the creeks in the Kent marshes. We go into Stangate Creek so that we can
find Sharfleet Creek which gets quite shallow at low water with a six metre tidal range at this time and we are pretty much at high tide so it looks very inviting. We have decided to anchor in one of the “holes” which is charted at 4 metres and so should have something like 8 or 9 metres of water at the time we are there. We’re intending to stay for some time so I deploy our heavy rocna anchor in the middle of the hole with forty metres of chain. The thought was that this would give us four times the maximum depth when the wind was likely to be blowing 15-20 knots. The other side though is that when we are around low tide with four metres of water, there is a lot of chain. This has the effect of making us “wander” around a bit on the anchor, although the anchor isn’t moving.
We use an app to help us when anchoring, Anchor on the iPad, which shows you a track of how you are moving around your anchor. It is important to remember to switch the app off before you move off though, or the anchor alarm starts going and you are frantically trying to work out what is going on.
in a really peaceful place but with the wind expected to pick up over the next few days we decide that we will pick up anchor first thing tomorrow and head to Queenborough.
We saw this setup on a Swiss boat in Ramsgate once and decided that this was a good idea for us. It means the whole deploying and retrieving the anchor is extended but we felt the advantages outweighed this disadvantage, although all of this was about to be reviewed. We are at low tide and we know that at places this area is quite shallow at this time. However, we are keen to get away. There is also a North Westerly wind which is quite strong and blowing us towards the shallow centre and southern section. The snubber comes off quite easily and the anchor is on its way up. As the anchor comes up, it comes up to deck height, the wrong way round and so it needs to turn. I lower the anchor again and then allow the twist to free itself. Meanwhile Maria has the boat under power. The anchor turns and comes back up with a quick flick throwing Medway mud all over me and the foredeck. I set about retrieving the anchor float and am getting the ten metres of line in quite well. Unfortunately as Maria is moving forward the float drifts backwards. Maria decides to use the bow thruster for a course correction and despite having nearly all of the line in, the float won’t budge. I call to her to use the bow thruster the other way so that we can free it. She does and the float comes free with some minor damage.
However, the combination of the bow thruster and the wind is moving us to starboard and towards the south of the creek….where the shallows are. Maria calls that we are getting low on depth and we quickly agree to turn hard to port, that was when we lost all motion and now we are stuck. I am quickly back in the cockpit and we discuss our options. This is potentially serious despite that we are five minutes prior to low tide (a good decision) and there will be more water lifting us momentarily. At the same time, the wind is blowing us into the shallows so we could just find ourselves being shifted further and further onto the mud as the water rises. Maria is trying to turn hard to port and using the bowthruster while I am starting to contemplate getting the rib deployed and using our anchor to kedge us off. In what seems like an age but was really just a few minutes, Maria starts to get some movement to port and we are unstuck. We now just need to make sure we don’t go slamming into the other bank, but at least that will be easier to get off 🙂 On reflection, we decide that Mariadz didn’t really run aground on the mud but was dredging a channel for smaller yachts!
We have explained to Deanne where we are and she gets most of the way before calling in to get the last few details of exactly how to get to us. I describe the pub we went in the other day and explain that if she proceeds along the waterfront there is a car park right in front of the pontoon. After a couple of minutes my directions have apparently put her onto a footpath with bollards at the end! I go to find her…with additional instructions from Maria for some more shopping for the meal – I had forgotten a few things. I arrive at the footpath to find Deanne’s car very close to the road to the car park. Unfortunately, she has to reverse out and go around a park to get access to the road to the car park, sorry!
We haven’t seen Deanne for some time and it was nice to catch up and the weather was kind so we spent most of the time in the cockpit area protected from the elements by the cockpit tent. It’s a lovely evening but in common with other times when Maria hasn’t seen a friend for a while, she will not go to bed. As the song has it, “it was only 10, how did it get to 3” and this is my life 🙂 Eventually, the girls stop chatting for long enough to realise it is probably time for bed, especially as Deanne has to collect her daughter early in the morning.
Deanne surfaces and is over an hour late, oops! Maria cannot lift her head from the pillow. I see Deanne off and settle in the cockpit chilling and catching up. Periodically, I pop down to check on her ladyship, who is clearly broken. She isn’t able to get out of bed until 2pm and then it is tomato juice for quite a while! Maria is a traditional girl though and no Sunday would be complete without a roast dinner and this time it is roast beef. Despite her hangover, Maria excels and dinner is fantastic. We also have a couple of pleasant conversations with some of the locals including being described as “proper sailors” because of the amount of mud on our anchor! That’s one in the eye for those who criticise us for having too big a boat with too many creature comforts.
time sleeping while I am on
watch. She does allow me to get some rest while she is on watch though. I say she is on watch, I think Clyde probably does as much as she does 🙂 Bonnie doesn’t like to be on the outside and when I lay down to close my eyes for a while she becomes very demanding wanting to be cuddled while I sleep.
In the end I have to cuddle her, while she headbutts me and I try to rest.
We continue sailing a fair way up the Orwell river before deciding to take the sail in and motor the final leg home. The weather is clearing now and there are some lovely views as you go up the Orwell.
As we proceed up the river we are know that we are now in the last stages before we can tie up.
It has felt like a long trip back. As you approach the Orwell Bridge, you need to call up to the lock so that you can get into the locked marina. Maria calls in and we are lucky to be just catching the gates before they are closed. Maria approaches warily because of the quite strong cross wind but handles the boat almost perfectly as this time she did make me jump a few feet rather than the more usual step down to the pontoon.